An Introduction to Top Roping
Climbers looking to start climbing on their own outside often have two common questions: how do I build a top rope anchor and what equipment is required to set up a top rope? Although there are many ways to build an anchor for top roping, my preferred method is to use a static line to create a master point with two solid anchor points. Here’s how to build one in four easy steps.
First, gather the gear. You’ll need:
75-100 feet of 9 or 10 mm static line. This is ideal for areas like Quincy Quarry, Rattlesnake Rocks, and Hammond Pond, where the anchors (trees, bolts, or old quarry equipment) are often 30 to 40 feet back from the edge of the cliff.
A minimum of four locking carabiners: two for the master point and two more for clipping the anchor into the bolts. Having an additional biner or two is useful for protecting yourself while you assemble the anchor and also in case you later need to build a ground anchor or self-rescue. A larger pear-shaped biner like the Black Diamond Rocklock is perfect for these applications.
A cordelette and a few shoulder-length slings.
A climbing rope. The Black Diamond 9.9 is a current favorite.
Second, attach the static line to a tree or bolt. Do this with an overhand knot clipped to a locking carabiner for the bolt or a figure-eight-follow-thru tied around the tree.
Third, run the line over the edge of the cliff and tie a master point. I usually use two overhands spaced 10-12 inches apart to make the master point. Clip two locking carabiners with the gates opposite and opposed to the master point. Then clip the midpoint of the climbing rope into both biners, lock the biners, and lower both sides the rope down the cliff. Don’t forget to alert folks below that there’s a rope coming down the cliff.
Finally, bring the static line back up and connect it to another bolt or tree. If you’re connecting to a bolt, a clove hitch tied to a carabiner and connected to the bolt works great, just be sure to back the clove hitch up with an overhand eight. If you’re connecting to a tree, a figure-eight-follow-thru works great if there’s not too much rope left. And if there’s too much rope left, tie the cordelette around the tree and then clip the static line to it just like with the bolt.
While there are a host of acronyms like NERDSS, EARNEST, or SERENE to help guide anchor building, here are a few critical points to keep in mind as you build your anchor.
The two individual anchor points (trees, bolts, or some combination thereof) must be strong and solid. Visually inspect bolts before you clip to them. Likewise, look for trees at least eight inches in diameter that are healthy and have a good root system. An easy way to initially evaluate a tree is to give it a push.
Every component of the anchor should be redundant. That way, if any one component fails, the anchor itself will not fail.
Construct the anchor so that the load is equally distributed amongst the two anchor points. In a similar vein, build it so that if one component of the system fails, there is no extension in the anchor.
Strive for as small an angle as possible between the master point and the individual anchor points. Also, avoid angles greater than 90 degrees.
Since you want to spend your time climbing (not rigging), your anchor should be simpleand efficient.
Stay protected anytime you are near the cliff edge. In the off chance you fall, you really want to be attached to something!
There’s a lot more detail on top-rope anchoring in both Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual and Toproping (How to Climb). And if any of this seems confusing, it’s also definitely worth considering a top-rope-anchor-specific climbing lesson, where you’ll spend a day or two gaining confidence in your anchor building.
