Quincy Quarries Bouldering Project: O Wall

Quincy Quarries Bouldering Project: O Wall

O Wall is my favorite spot to boulder at Quincy Quarries. It’s a small area confined to itself, on the far back side of the Quarry, removed from most of the climbing scene. Straight-ups are about 16-20 feet tall and vary in difficulty. The 30-foot Alien Traverse (number 7) is the best. The ratings are Quincy Quarry-ish, so might feel sandbagged if this is your first time climbing here.

1. Easy Crack: One of the few boulder problems in the area where you can practice crack climbing technique, at least until you get to the dirty top-out. Using the face holds on either side makes the problem much easier. V0.

2. Alien Crack: Climb the crack in the open book just left of the alien shown in the picture. Use the right face to top-out; above the left face is a pesky tree. The crux is at the top and more mental than physical. V1.

3. Alien Up: Start in the middle-right of the alien n the picture, just left of the thin seam that runs down from the top. You may need to stamp down some weeds to find the starting feet. Climb between the seam and the right side of the alien to the top. All hands and feet are “on” except the big ledge near the top. V2.

4. LOTW: Start just left of Warmup (route 5), hence the name. Follow good holds to the big ledge, then top-out just left of another pesky tree. V0.

5. Warmup: Climb straight up on obvious jugs. A great warm up. V0-.

6. Oh My: According to Boston Rocks, this route stays true to the arete, only trending left near the top. The highest route on the wall. Slightly harder than Warmup. V0-.

7. Alien Traverse: Excellent wall traverse in either direction. Right to Left is V1. Left to Right is closer to V2. All top ledges are off; everything else is on. In both directions, the crux is a stretchy section on crimps just over the alien.

By Doug Martland

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