Gear Beta for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

Whether you’ve already signed up for a Single Pitch Instructor Course offered by the American Mountain Guides Association or are considering taking one in the future, having the right gear for the class (and knowing how to use it) will help you get the most out of the three-day program. Here are 8 pieces of the equipment that I found really useful while going through my SPI Course.

1. The SPI Manual 

Whenever someone interested in taking the SPI asks me questions about the technical skills covered during the course, my typical response is almost always “have you looked at the SPI book”? Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual by Jason Martin is an outstanding resource, covering all of the systems and building block techniques that you’ll be expected to learn during the course. 

Once you get the book, I recommend reading it to set your baseline knowledge. Some of the material (such as tying a figure 8) should feel pretty familiar, but much of the info, such as belayed rappels and pickoffs, is likely to be new. To that end, after you’ve read the book consider experimenting with some of the systems. The more you’ve practiced systems before the course, the more you can get out of the instructors’ guidance on application and refinements. As well, it will give you a good idea of where you should focus practice time, both before the course and then later as you prepare for the exam.

In addition to being a great resource before your course, the book is also great to have during the course to review skills learned during the day and to double check that the key points were covered. A physical book is especially useful for course locations that lack internet access. 

2. A Guide’s Notebook 

During the course you’re going to want a notebook to record information like the plan for the day or your notes on technical systems. A Guide’s Notebook is perfect for this. Most everyone uses the Rite in the Rain 4.6x7” stapled notebook or the spiral bound version of the same size. Both are small, light, and waterproof. The stapled version is my favorite because it’s thinner, lighter, and fits well in the old Brooks Range notebook cases (which, sadly, are no longer available).  

Once you have your notebook, make a habit of using it for whatever climbing activity you are planning on, especially if you will be practicing skills for the course or exam. Here is a simple template to start you off:

• Date: YYYYMMDD

• Group: everyone in the group with any specific notes like new to outdoor, medical considerations, specific goals

• Hazards: Any specific hazards to the area or goals for the day

• Goals/Objectives: This can be climbs to build your SPI resume, skills, or general ideas, but should also include some alternative plans 

• Debrief: Fill out at the end of the day what went well, what can be improved, and info for next time (we didn’t need to bring the #5 cam on Standard Route on Whitehorse).

3. A Petzl GriGri

The GriGri is the tool of choice for the SPI Course and Exam. Excelling in the single pitch environment, it is perfect for activities at both the top and bottom of the cliff. 

In top-managed situations it is easy to use a GriGri to lower a client, belay a client, or haul a client with a progress capture. And it is much easier than using a guide style plate device, which adds a lot of unnecessary complexity. 

Similarly, the GriGri is also the belay device of choice in bottom-managed systems and belay stations. In addition to making your belaying responsibilities easier, it makes it much quicker and safer to complete a pick-off of a climber who won’t (or can’t) lower off the cliff. Having to do this SPI skill with a regular tube style belay device is a lot more complicated and something outside the core SPI curriculum.  

4. A Sterling HollowBlock 

If the Petzl GriGri is the tool of choice during the SPI Course, the Sterling HollowBlock is a close second. A sewn cord made from a specialized fiber, the HollowBlock has at least four advantages over a traditional prusik cord made out of accessory cord.  

First, a HollowBlock by virtue of being a sewn sling instead of a tied cord with a bulky knot, has a much lower profile on your harness, which is nice since you’ll be wearing this on your harness, along with a belay device and a double length sling, for the entire course. Second, the lack of a joining knot also makes manipulating the HollowBlock much smoother and faster when setting up various friction hitches, something you’ll be doing a lot of during your course. Third, the HollowBlock grabs rope really well and can be used reliably on a wide range of rope diameters. Finally, the HollowBlock’s aramid fibers stand up well to the heat generated by friction on long rappels or lowers.  

5. A Bi-Pattern or Bi-Color Rope

Having a rope that has two very distinct sides can be handy for the most complex top-managed system you will learn during the course—the belayed rappel. A belayed rappel is usually set up with the climber rappelling on one strand of the rope while the guide lowers them with the other end. Having different patterns on your rope means that the rappel line is easily distinguishable from the back-up belay. As well, the two distinct sides of the rope make it easy to find the midpoint, something you’ll need to find to begin building this system. 

Pro Tip: Because bi-color and bi-pattern ropes are more expensive than a regular rope, buying one of these might not be worth it for you if you are not planning on taking the SPI Exam or working as an instructor.  

6. A Large HMS Carabiner Different From Your Other Carabiners

Having a larger locking carabiner in a different color than your other locking carabiners allows for better visual organization of complex systems. During your class, you’ll likely feel like there’s a lot of moving parts to keep track of in the systems you're learning. By using clear visual organization tools like a distinguishable locking carabiner the complexity becomes much easier to manage and you’re much less likely to accidentally unclip the carabiner that’s securing you to the anchor.

7. Belay Gloves

Between rappelling, ascending a rope, and doing lowers, you’re going to spend a lot of your course handling ropes. Having a good pair of belay gloves will do wonders for your comfort and skin. I really like the Stone Glove from Black Diamond Equipment, using it all the time when I’m guiding.  

8. A Car Bag

Having a grocery or tote bag dedicated as a “car bag” really makes my day more pleasant. For me the car bag gets two sets of items, pre-climb and post-climb, along with whatever I decide at the last minute I don’t need with me.  

Pre-climb items can be things like bug spray and sunscreen. Having these items easily accessible at the beginning of the day makes it easy for me to remember to put them on and to offer some to my clients. Post-climb, it is great to have a clean shirt to change into and some food and water to kickstart your recovery on the drive home. 

In sun, use these recommendations when training for your course and you’ll be well on the way to becoming an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor. And if there is a piece of gear you think should be mentioned, I want to hear about it! Leave me your recommendations in the comments

By Scott Powers. Scott is an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor and a guide for the EMS Climbing School.

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