The Expanding Kingdom
It’s hard to believe that it’s been roughly 15 years since I made my first trip to Kingdom Trails in East Burke, Vermont. In fact, it’s been so long that I can’t even remember how I came to learn about how this sleepy town in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom that was reinventing itself as a mountain bike mecca by building seemingly endless amounts of singletrack through the town’s forests.
A lot has changed since those early trips to East Burke. Back when I first started visiting, you simply parked in the lot for East Burke Sports, went inside, and bought a ticket (I think it was $5 a day and $25 for the season) before making the long climb up the road to the trails on top of Darling Hill. Today, there are multiple lots (each of which fills up fast), a visitor center, multiple locations in which to buy tickets, and a trail built to help riders avoid that long, arduous road climb. (Oh, and tickets are now $15 a day, and $75 for the season.)
In the early days of riding Kingdom Trails, it was like my personal paradise. Many days, I would be lucky to see another rider on the trails, and if I did, it would usually be someone from East Burke Sports taking a hot lunch lap on Tody’s Tour, or a shop employee heading out at the end of the day, as my ride was coming to a close. These days, finding solitary singletrack moments at Kingdom Trails is harder to do, and judging by how busy East Burke Sports stays—despite the addition of a second bike shop, Village Sports Trailside, on top of Darling Hill—I can’t imagine many employees sneaking out during the middle of the day.
Not only were the trails quieter all those years ago, the town was too. Want something to eat? There was the Mobil station or the Northeast Kingdom Country Store in town, or you could drive to the diner in Lyndon. Today, the Mobil station still is a good bet for a quick snack and the Northeast Kingdom Country Store still delivers amazing sandwiches—you just have to wait in line a little bit longer to get one. There are also now a lot of other food options, like the ice cream stand across the street from the Country Store, or the two food trucks parked in the main lot serving up everything from pizza to burritos. There is also a fantastic coffee shop down the road, and nestled next to the food trucks is Mike’s Tiki Bar, which serves up an incredible selection of Vermont craft brews and ciders.
At times I bemoan the fact that the secret is out about Kingdom Trails. I miss the sleepy town and fondly look back on not having to share the epic singletrack with others. I can find parking frustrating at times, and the large groups that clog trail intersections drive me insane. Most of all, I miss $25 season passes.
Despite my frustrations and occasional yearning for the past, I love what Kingdom Trails has become. Kingdom Trails has become a hub (pardon the pun) for mountain biking in the Northeast and a gathering place for the tribe. With trails suitable for riders of all levels, it’s a place that attracts beginners and experts alike. And, with more bikes than cars during the riding season, they’ve created an infectious atmosphere for cycling. But what I like most of all, is Mike’s Tiki Bar.
If you haven’t made a trip to Kingdom Trails yet, there is no better time than now. See you up there.
By Tim Peck
